Friday, 7 March 2008

Amsterdam. Have you been waiting to see? (Amsterdam, Holland)

Can you imagine a more beautiful city?  Things I was thinking of before we went.  Bicycles, canals, Van Gogh, Anne Frank and of course, the red light district.  An interesting mix by anyone's standards.  And yet, its totally Amsterdam, and I loved it.  

Where to Start? (Amsterdam)

In something I can only describe as completely out of character, Jason and I began our visit to Holland (Amsterdam) by eating Mexican food.  I can't explain it!  Actually, I can.  If you know us, you know we love Mexican food.  In Europe, however, Mexican food isn't really popular -- okay, that's an understatement, its not popular at all.  So, consequently, everywhere you go, there are these awful forms of Mexican food -- wannabe Mexican actually.  Say, guacamole with mayonnaise in it (as in the UK), or burritos with baked beans and cucumbers (a la Copenhagen)...you are starting to get the picture.  So, with this little Mexican joint around the corner from our hotel, we skeptically entered -- hopes high as always, waiting for the big let down.  

I can report, however, that the food was pretty good.  A little bland, but we enjoyed a Mexican beer, had some chips and salsa, and were frankly pretty pleased with our tacos and burritos.  (Please don't read into this that the meal was authentic or anything near authenticity -- but hey, our standards are so low by now, we'll take any Mexican food we can find!)

Enroute to Dam Square (Amsterdam)

Our first look at Amsterdam.  We are just outside our hotel -- I loved the architecture of Amsterdam.  The houses are multi-coloured, slightly crooked at times, but completely charming.

"[The square] was created in the 13th century when a dam was built around the river Amstel to prevent the Zuiderzee sea from swarming the city. During the sixties, the square was renowned for its Dam Square hippies, and the laid back and relaxed character of this densely pigeon populated square lives on."

Jason looks sufficiently laid back in the square, don't you think?

Houses, Churches, Canals and Bicycles (Amsterdam)

A picture I happen to like.  Just a view of the architecture, the differences in houses, and the slightly odd and put together look of Amsterdam.
  
"Westerkerk or the West Church, the church most visited by tourists in the city, has the largest nave of any Dutch Protestant Church, and the tallest tower and the largest congregation in Amsterdam.  The church was completed in 1631."  Inside the church, is said to be buried Rembrandt (8 October 1669) and his son, Titus, a year earlier in 1668.
The church is only open to the public from April to September.  We were there in November, so we were unable to go inside.

Canals and bicycles.  Although this was our first day, we were instantly introduced to a theme to repeat in Amsterdam over and over.  Stunning canals and bicycles!!  In this picture, you can see Westerkerk behind Jason, and if you look closely on the left of the picture -- look at the roof lines, do you see the house in the middle where the roof is flat?  That's Anne Frank's hideaway house.  Don't worry -- we are going there in a different post!

Anne Frank's House and Museum (Amsterdam)

Can I just start by saying -- there are no words.  No, that's not true, there are -- they just aren't good enough.

The museum doesn't allow pictures, and frankly, I didn't care to take any.  
The house is like nothing you could ever imagine -- for a lot of reasons.  For starters, its actually above a factory not another house.  And something else, its much bigger than I had ever pictured in my mind.  Aside from the physical space, there were so so many people who helped them.  I mean, I knew that -- of course, but the risk, the generosity, it was so overwhelming.  
In fact -- everything about the experience was overwhelming.  

Truth be told though, its so much better than the story of a little girl living with her family in confinement and hiding.  The museum has made sure that the experience matters, that you understand (as best as anyone not in that situation ever could)  the war, these lives, the neighbourhoods, the military -- all of it -- in the most interconnected way.   
All of the feelings of those few hours in museum remain with me today (and will always).

I searched the internet for these photos for you.  They aren't in any particular order.  
Here is the book case, opening to the left, that leads to the hidden staircase up to the apartment.  The bookcase is always propped slightly open, and it is the entrance to the apartment today. 
 
This is a sketch of the interior of the apartment.  Its in the back of the factory and is spread over three levels. 
 
This is the front of the house/factory.  The museum owns the entire building now, and allows the public into the apartment.  Additionally, downstairs there is an exhibit dedicated to the work of the museum's anti-semitic/anti-racism organisation. 
 
After all that, a smile for you.  I am standing in the line to the house.  Its such an important museum, the line regularly wraps around corner/block.  We arrived early, and fortunately the line was at a minimum.

Bicycles (Amsterdam)

This looks like a common car park.  But look closely.  Those are bicycles.  Loads of them!  In Amsterdam, there are about 740,000 resident.  There are approximately 600,000 bicycles!  Amsterdam is a small city (you could walk across in about thirty minutes), and so bicycles rule!  They reminded me of beach cruisers in the style of the bicycle and they have no hand brakes, instead you brake by pressing backwards on the peddles.  For visitors, there are public bicycles that you can unlock using a paid smart card.  We never rode the bicycles, as we could walk everywhere -- but they did look fun! 

Pub Life

When Jason was looking at the Amsterdam entries, he noticed that a post about the afternoon we spent in an Amsterdam cafe was missing.  I hate the pictures from the cafe (bad rain hair, lighting, etc...) but I do think this video is quite charming, if not a bit dark.  I hope you enjoy a small glimpse into our afternoon!


Canal Boating! (Amsterdam)

Generally, Jason and I like to take a hop on-hop off bus tour in a city we are visiting.  Its always a little cheesy, but we like it nonetheless.  In Amsterdam, we signed up for the hop on -hop off canal boat!  As it was raining one morning, we thought it would be a good idea to hop on and stay on -- at least until the rain passed!

We were rewarded by this decision, as the canals are lovely in the rain.  Actually, the canals are lovely period.  As are the bridges, the houseboats, the bicycles, all of it.  Charming, really!

Jason on the boat!  Did I mention the boat was heated?  As there was quite the chill in the air -- I am curled up by the window, hovering over the heater!

This is a special sight for the boat tour.  There are seven bridges all in a row -- the view is exactly the same if you are looking out the opposite window as well.  Jason certainly had to be quick and positioned to snag this photo as the boat was motoring on by!

Crooked Houses and Red Lights! (Amsterdam)

Early one morning on a walk, we spotted this house.  Jason had to take a picture of it, well, because look at it!  It looks as though its about to fall over!  Anyway, after the photo we wondered over to investigate the house and the neighbourhood a bit more -- and well, what do you know?  We were in the Red Light District.  

For the record, I wasn't that interested in the district.  (For so many reasons!)  But, I have to say, it was 8:30 in the morning and there really wasn't anything happening in the district.  So not too bad for a first visit.  On the other hand, we saw plenty.  Apparently, there is a need for sex that early in the morning, and so, there were girls in the windows.  Or should I say women.  Maybe, really, older women.  Certainly, there is a time when the "more attractive women" are out, and when the less attractive ones are out.  Lets just say, 8:30 on a Sunday morning fits into the latter category.  

Anyway, there are no pictures to be taken in the district as the women charge for them, and frankly, why would you?  But we did take a photo on this street, and as you can see, its really empty.  The bars, smoke shops, brothels -- all fairly quiet!


A Fond Farewell! (Amsterdam)

A lovely canal-side goodbye!  A fitting end, don't you think?