Friday, 7 March 2008

Amsterdam. Have you been waiting to see? (Amsterdam, Holland)

Can you imagine a more beautiful city?  Things I was thinking of before we went.  Bicycles, canals, Van Gogh, Anne Frank and of course, the red light district.  An interesting mix by anyone's standards.  And yet, its totally Amsterdam, and I loved it.  

Where to Start? (Amsterdam)

In something I can only describe as completely out of character, Jason and I began our visit to Holland (Amsterdam) by eating Mexican food.  I can't explain it!  Actually, I can.  If you know us, you know we love Mexican food.  In Europe, however, Mexican food isn't really popular -- okay, that's an understatement, its not popular at all.  So, consequently, everywhere you go, there are these awful forms of Mexican food -- wannabe Mexican actually.  Say, guacamole with mayonnaise in it (as in the UK), or burritos with baked beans and cucumbers (a la Copenhagen)...you are starting to get the picture.  So, with this little Mexican joint around the corner from our hotel, we skeptically entered -- hopes high as always, waiting for the big let down.  

I can report, however, that the food was pretty good.  A little bland, but we enjoyed a Mexican beer, had some chips and salsa, and were frankly pretty pleased with our tacos and burritos.  (Please don't read into this that the meal was authentic or anything near authenticity -- but hey, our standards are so low by now, we'll take any Mexican food we can find!)

Enroute to Dam Square (Amsterdam)

Our first look at Amsterdam.  We are just outside our hotel -- I loved the architecture of Amsterdam.  The houses are multi-coloured, slightly crooked at times, but completely charming.

"[The square] was created in the 13th century when a dam was built around the river Amstel to prevent the Zuiderzee sea from swarming the city. During the sixties, the square was renowned for its Dam Square hippies, and the laid back and relaxed character of this densely pigeon populated square lives on."

Jason looks sufficiently laid back in the square, don't you think?

Houses, Churches, Canals and Bicycles (Amsterdam)

A picture I happen to like.  Just a view of the architecture, the differences in houses, and the slightly odd and put together look of Amsterdam.
  
"Westerkerk or the West Church, the church most visited by tourists in the city, has the largest nave of any Dutch Protestant Church, and the tallest tower and the largest congregation in Amsterdam.  The church was completed in 1631."  Inside the church, is said to be buried Rembrandt (8 October 1669) and his son, Titus, a year earlier in 1668.
The church is only open to the public from April to September.  We were there in November, so we were unable to go inside.

Canals and bicycles.  Although this was our first day, we were instantly introduced to a theme to repeat in Amsterdam over and over.  Stunning canals and bicycles!!  In this picture, you can see Westerkerk behind Jason, and if you look closely on the left of the picture -- look at the roof lines, do you see the house in the middle where the roof is flat?  That's Anne Frank's hideaway house.  Don't worry -- we are going there in a different post!

Anne Frank's House and Museum (Amsterdam)

Can I just start by saying -- there are no words.  No, that's not true, there are -- they just aren't good enough.

The museum doesn't allow pictures, and frankly, I didn't care to take any.  
The house is like nothing you could ever imagine -- for a lot of reasons.  For starters, its actually above a factory not another house.  And something else, its much bigger than I had ever pictured in my mind.  Aside from the physical space, there were so so many people who helped them.  I mean, I knew that -- of course, but the risk, the generosity, it was so overwhelming.  
In fact -- everything about the experience was overwhelming.  

Truth be told though, its so much better than the story of a little girl living with her family in confinement and hiding.  The museum has made sure that the experience matters, that you understand (as best as anyone not in that situation ever could)  the war, these lives, the neighbourhoods, the military -- all of it -- in the most interconnected way.   
All of the feelings of those few hours in museum remain with me today (and will always).

I searched the internet for these photos for you.  They aren't in any particular order.  
Here is the book case, opening to the left, that leads to the hidden staircase up to the apartment.  The bookcase is always propped slightly open, and it is the entrance to the apartment today. 
 
This is a sketch of the interior of the apartment.  Its in the back of the factory and is spread over three levels. 
 
This is the front of the house/factory.  The museum owns the entire building now, and allows the public into the apartment.  Additionally, downstairs there is an exhibit dedicated to the work of the museum's anti-semitic/anti-racism organisation. 
 
After all that, a smile for you.  I am standing in the line to the house.  Its such an important museum, the line regularly wraps around corner/block.  We arrived early, and fortunately the line was at a minimum.

Bicycles (Amsterdam)

This looks like a common car park.  But look closely.  Those are bicycles.  Loads of them!  In Amsterdam, there are about 740,000 resident.  There are approximately 600,000 bicycles!  Amsterdam is a small city (you could walk across in about thirty minutes), and so bicycles rule!  They reminded me of beach cruisers in the style of the bicycle and they have no hand brakes, instead you brake by pressing backwards on the peddles.  For visitors, there are public bicycles that you can unlock using a paid smart card.  We never rode the bicycles, as we could walk everywhere -- but they did look fun! 

Pub Life

When Jason was looking at the Amsterdam entries, he noticed that a post about the afternoon we spent in an Amsterdam cafe was missing.  I hate the pictures from the cafe (bad rain hair, lighting, etc...) but I do think this video is quite charming, if not a bit dark.  I hope you enjoy a small glimpse into our afternoon!


Canal Boating! (Amsterdam)

Generally, Jason and I like to take a hop on-hop off bus tour in a city we are visiting.  Its always a little cheesy, but we like it nonetheless.  In Amsterdam, we signed up for the hop on -hop off canal boat!  As it was raining one morning, we thought it would be a good idea to hop on and stay on -- at least until the rain passed!

We were rewarded by this decision, as the canals are lovely in the rain.  Actually, the canals are lovely period.  As are the bridges, the houseboats, the bicycles, all of it.  Charming, really!

Jason on the boat!  Did I mention the boat was heated?  As there was quite the chill in the air -- I am curled up by the window, hovering over the heater!

This is a special sight for the boat tour.  There are seven bridges all in a row -- the view is exactly the same if you are looking out the opposite window as well.  Jason certainly had to be quick and positioned to snag this photo as the boat was motoring on by!

Crooked Houses and Red Lights! (Amsterdam)

Early one morning on a walk, we spotted this house.  Jason had to take a picture of it, well, because look at it!  It looks as though its about to fall over!  Anyway, after the photo we wondered over to investigate the house and the neighbourhood a bit more -- and well, what do you know?  We were in the Red Light District.  

For the record, I wasn't that interested in the district.  (For so many reasons!)  But, I have to say, it was 8:30 in the morning and there really wasn't anything happening in the district.  So not too bad for a first visit.  On the other hand, we saw plenty.  Apparently, there is a need for sex that early in the morning, and so, there were girls in the windows.  Or should I say women.  Maybe, really, older women.  Certainly, there is a time when the "more attractive women" are out, and when the less attractive ones are out.  Lets just say, 8:30 on a Sunday morning fits into the latter category.  

Anyway, there are no pictures to be taken in the district as the women charge for them, and frankly, why would you?  But we did take a photo on this street, and as you can see, its really empty.  The bars, smoke shops, brothels -- all fairly quiet!


A Fond Farewell! (Amsterdam)

A lovely canal-side goodbye!  A fitting end, don't you think?

Thursday, 24 January 2008

Enough already. The break has been too long.

I have been totally slacking off.  I know it.  Shame on me.  Well, that's all going to stop now.  I have so much to catch up on.  First stop?  Roma!

Easy Peasy... (Rome, Italy)

A quick flight to the airport, a short train ride into the city centre, a short walk from the train station to our hotel, and viola!  We are in Rome.  We swore off Italy.  We have been there so many times.  I mean its beautiful, but there are so many other countries, you know?  
On the other hand, there's Rome.  

Our first stop. (Rome, Italy)

Palazzo Barberini and Fontana del Tritone (Triton Fountain).  Not only was this palazzo and fountain very close to our hotel, I had requested it as a first stop because of the bees.  Yes bees.  Gian Bernini "is the artist who probably left the strongest personal mark on the appearance of the city of the Rome."  Bernini designed this fountain, and placed bees (the crest of the Barberini family) all over the fountain.

Look closely...see the bees?


Trevi Fountain. Oh yeah! (Rome, Italy)

By now, nightfall had set in and we thought it might be a "quiet" time to visit the Trevi Fountain.  "The backdrop for the fountain is the Palazzo Poli, given a new facade with a giant order of Corinthian pilasters that link the two main stories. Taming of the waters is the theme of the gigantic scheme that tumbles forward, mixing water and rockwork, and filling the small square. Tritons guide Neptune's shell chariot, taming seahorses (hippocamps)."

Doesn't he look cute?  (As you can begin to see, when you are in Rome, you are never alone.)

We went to Rome in November.  We thought this would be a good time to go, less tourists, crappy weather month...we did not, however, remember that it was a three day Italian holiday weekend.  Oops!
 
Personally, I am not interested in all these people.  So, my second goal, after seeing the beautiful fountain, was to find a spot where there were no people.  :)  (Or at least, the fewest amount of people!)

Piazza Colonna (Rome, Italy)

"Piazza Colonna is a piazza at the center of the Rione of Colonna in the historic heart of Rome, Italy. It is named for the marble Column of Marcus Aurelius which has stood there since 193 AD."

Here is the column the next day.  I think its gorgeous.  You can't, however, see just how gorgeous it is until you see it close up.  All those carvings.  It is intricate and amazing. 

See how amazing it is?  Considering how old it is, its gorgeous.

Dome. Dome. Dome. (Rome, Italy)

I am standing in front of the Pantheon.  "The Pantheon is a building in Rome which was originally built as a temple to 'all the gods' of Ancient Rome.  It is the best preserved of all Roman buildings, and perhaps the best preserved building of its age in the world. It has been in continuous use throughout its history.  Since the 7th century, the Pantheon has been used as a Christian church The Pantheon is currently the oldest standing domed structure in Rome.”

Here is a shot of the ceiling outside the entrance to the Dome.  It is in such magnificent shape for being so old, and frankly having wood through its structure. 
 
As with everywhere else we went in Rome, I needed a people break.  Here I am outside the Pantheon, camera'ing, but also avoiding a crowd entering in the doorway!
 
This is the altar.  Its really ornate and there are tombs on either side of the altar.  What's actually amazing about the Pantheon is that it is a true dome, and there is a hole in the middle of the dome to allow light in.  The hole is wide open -- meaning rain, wind, etc...all come through.  It was really hard to photograph though, because the centre area (where you can see the chairs in this picture) is roped off for services.  So, instead, we shot our pictures straight on!

Here's the cool thing about Rome...

There are ruins everywhere.  I mean everywhere. 

You might be looking at this photo thinking we are somewhere important.  You would be wrong.  Just as Jason and I were when we stumbled upon these ruins and spent the 20 minutes trying to find them in the guidebook.  Turns out.  They are just ruins.  (See me filming them?  We have no idea what they are and neither does the guidebook.)  They sure are impressive though!

The Roman Forum (Rome, Italy)

The Roman Forum is filled with ruins.  Seriously.  Its hard to blog about.  There is just so much stuff.  Columns, basilicas, temples, and statues.  Everything you ever wanted to know about history is here.  And its beautiful.  (This is coming from someone who has a hard time picturing how rocks would have looked thousands of years ago!)

"The Temple of Saturn (Latin: Templum Saturni or Aedes Saturnus) is a monument to the agricultural deity Saturn, that stands at the western end of the Forum Romanum in Rome. It represents the oldest-surviving foundation in that area, having been established between 501 and 498 BC."

Here I am standing underneath the  Arch of Septimius Severus.

Oh where to start?  Let's just call this the Roman Forum. 
 
This is the side of the House of the Vestal Virgins.  "The priestesses who tended the sacred flame in the Temple of Vesta lived here.  The house was originally a large rectangular building around a central garden."  The grass in this picture is the central garden.    

Another one for the cat lovers! Roman cats! (Italy)



This is one of my favourite pictures!  I love the ruins and the black cat.  They are so striking against each other. 
 

Colosseum -- Just what you have been waiting for! (Rome, Italy)

First things, first.  The crowds.  Like everything else in Rome, always remember you are never alone! 

Once inside, well, the crowds slightly thin.  It doesn't really matter though, because the coliseum is so incredible that time (and people) seem to fade away.  You are left standing alone, picturing life as a gladiator would.  Its really incredible.




The most impressive thing...the flooring structure.  In the back of this photo, is a false cover, demonstrating what the colosseum would have looked like.  Underneath the floor are all the corridors where the gladiators and the animals were kept prior to the matches.