A note on the blog...

Like any good author, I must provide a note about the order. The blog is in no particular order. Start with what's at the top. That's our most recent post. As you read through the posts, you can tell what city we are in by the title. When the city in the title changes, we are in a different city! And so on to the end of the blog! (This was the easiest way I could think of to separate our trips!)

Remember, the blog is hardly complete...in fact, its a work in progress! So please, please check back often for updates on our previous travels and any future trips!

One final point...on the left hand column is the archives of the blog. I tried to at least put one city in each day. So if you click on a day, say 2007 and then January 7, you should see all the different posts from Bath. And so on for each day. I hope this makes sense. It will have to do for now! Any questions? You know how to email me!

One final, final point...when you get to the end of the posts on this page, click on the link to "Older Posts" and the blog will continue!

Ode to the BA Lounge!

Can you guess where we are going next?

Let's Start Here! (Stockholm, Sweden)

Ahhh, Stockholm -- what to say?  As many of you know, I have been dying to get to a Scandinavian country.  Call it what you will -- I just wanted to see what life was like so far north!  I can happily report -- life is good.  At least in Stockholm.  Oh true, there's the expense, the cold -- but at the end of the day, all you really think is -- what a cool city!

Architectural Scenes! (Stockholm, Sweden)

Let's set the mood.  Stockholm is a remarkable blend of old and new architecture.  The result?  Its quirky and unique.  More importantly, as a tourist, you never know what is around the next corner.  Its an exciting city to explore given that the scenery can be so different.  Stockholm is made up of different islands.  The effect makes it look as though there are canals throughout the city, but that's not necessarily the right description.  Instead, the waterways are larger than canals and the islands have developed a completely different style depending on when they were settled.  Our first stop was the island of Gamla Stan.  This is the historic, old city island.  Everything you would want and expect from such a historic city.  HEre are a few pictures from around the island!

Storkyrkan Church (Stockholm, Sweden)

From the guide book: "Storkyrkan was first mentioned in a written source dated 1279, and became a Lutheran Protestant church in 1527. The parish church since the Middle Ages of the Nikolai parish, covering the whole island on which the Old Town stands, it has also been the cathedral of Stockholm since the Diocese of Stockholm was broken out from the Archdiocese of Uppsala and the Diocese of Strängnäs in 1942. The last Swedish king to be crowned here was Oscar II in 1873."

Jason and I like to play a little game I call "What's the oldest thing I have ever seen (or in some cases touched)?"  Although we stumbled upon it by accident, this church certainly ranks high on the oldest list.  Usually, when we tour churches or landmarks, there is always a note, this church was built in such and such year, but there has been a church on this site since 1187.  BUt that's kind of misleading, because the church you are actually standing in is much newer than that.  Of course, its all relative, because by new it might have been built in 1789.  So, you never know.  Either way, this church still tops the list.  

  

This statue is also on that list.  Commissioned in 1489 to commemorate the Battle of Brunkeberg.  Its a statue of Stain George and the Dragon.  It is clearly the focus of the church, and worth the little crowd always admiring it.  If you are interested there are a number of pictures of it on the internet -- Jason's pictures are good, but the lighting was low for preservation, so they don't do the statue complete justice!

This is a picture of the pulpit.  There is no historical blurb for me to repeat here.  But I liked it.  Apparently so did Jason, because I found this picture of it on the camera!

Dear readers, if you are a faithful blog reader of mine, you know I like organs.  The music is lovely, true, but I also love how grand and beautiful they all tend to be.  Even in the simplest of churches there is always a gorgeous organ.  So Jason was sweet enough to capture this one for me!!

The Changing of the Guard -- Swedish Style (Stockholm, Sweden)

Living in a country with an incredible changing of the guard (think Buckingham Palace), the bench was set fairly high for arrival for the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace.  Okay, we didn't actually know that the changing of the guard was happening when we got to the Palace.  But as soon as we arrived, the barriers were erected and the people began to congregate.  Fortuitously, the barrier was placed in front of me, and just like that, I have a front row seat (standing position)!  It was a bit cold (read freezing) and raining, but I can report it was really nice.  There were trumpeters, drummers, marching soldiers -- everything necessary for the right amount of pomp and circumstance! 

Here is a guard prior to the beginning of the ceremony.  I was really admiring their hats -- especially in the rain!  

Here are the guards heading out.  The leave the courtyard, and return through the main gates -- with the drummers, of course!

In this picture, the guards have just come through the main gates and are marching into formation in the courtyard.

The majority of the ceremony is in this position.  The guards are singled out (for reasons probably stated in Swedish!), and then show off a bit.  They march, command each other, raise and lower the flags and switch gun and sword positions.  Very regal!!

The Weather! (Stockholm, Sweden)

Quick!  What do you do when the light drizzle turns to full on rain?  Get out the umbrella!  (That's me with the pink one!)  Look across to the next island where there is a gorgeous building.  (See the grey building on the left?)  Consult the map.  Discover its the National Art Museum.  Make a break for it!

Along the way -- remember you are on holiday!  Take a lovely picture of the island you are heading to!

And finally!  Brave the rain and the cold for a quick snap for the folks back home!  (Then run inside the museum -- where you are pleasantly surprised that there is an incredible Toulouse-Lautrec exhibit happening!)

Shopping (and my new camera)!! (Stockholm, Sweden)

Jason was kind enough to buy me a new camera for Christmas.  I have to confess that it is substantially more sophisticated than my old one.  So getting used to it has taken awhile.  But I think you can see from these pictures that I am getting better and better at using it!  Stay tuned for even more gorgeous pictures!!

Okay, now for the sights.  Obviously, this is a pedestrianised shopping street in Stockholm.  While parts of the street were very normal, full of standard stores...

...some of the stores have made more of an effort to stand out. 

 

(And a close up of Jason!  Back to the camera testing!!)

Things that happen when... (Stockholm, Sweden)

I have the camera:

You get hilarious pictures of Jason, in a random square, slightly smiling, and slightly thinking I am a total moron for taking pictures of him in a random square!  (In my defense he looks good and its a great photo -- see post about new camera!)

Jason had told me when he visited a couple of our friends in Oslo, Norway, that the Olso'ians were really into Kebab Shops.  Street food, really.  In Europe, they generally have kebabs, gyros, meat cut from a rotisserie...all really good stuff.  But it appears that the Scandinavians have taken this to heart.  Even in Stockholm they are everywhere.  Or should I say on every street corner.  AND!  They are cheap and good.  I'm thinking more of the cheap part -- definitely good for such an expensive country!

So you get a picture of a kebab house.  Same random square.

 

Street scene, facing out of same random square.  You may be thinking this pictures are a bit silly, but hold on -- look at that street!  Between the buildings and the boats -- I'm still charmed.  Yes, the weather still hasn't improved in any of these pictures, but Stockholm remains just as lovely!

 

Jason has the camera.  You get cheesy side shots of me, in said random square.  (On a related note, I think in this picture I am actually thinking of which cheesy to photo take myself!)

A Three Way View! (Stockholm, Sweden)

Its getting colder, as you can tell from my need to put every scarf and sweater I brought with me on...  But aside from that.  Jason and I are walking across the bridge from a newer island to the old historic island of Gamla Stan.  Behind me is the archway to Gamla Stan.

New position.  I am facing the archway now.  This is a different pedestrianized street from the one before.  On this street, more local and cheap tourist items are available, as opposed to the other pedestrianised street of lovely items.

 

Final position.  To the left side as we cross from one island to the other!

Sun. (Stockholm, Sweden)

I'm thinking with all this weather you might be wondering what we were thinking of heading to Sweden this time of year.  There are a number of answers for that, but instead of the details, I thought I would post a few sunny pictures!  

It feels good to finally squint in the bright sunlight!

Even the buildings and the cars look better!

The waterways are even more glorious!!

Vasa Museum! (Stockholm, Sweden)

Here is a picture from the museum of the bow of the ship!

First, from the guidebook: "Vasa is a warship that was built for Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden from 1626 to 1628. The ship foundered and sank after sailing less than a nautical mile (2 km) into her maiden voyage on August 10, 1628.  The Vasa was relocated in the late 1950s and salvaged with a largely intact hull on April 24, 1961.  The Vasa Museum was built to house her in 1987.  The ship is one of Sweden's most popular tourist attractions and, as of 2007, has attracted more than 25 million visitors."

Okay, from me:  This great ship.  Its huge and so impressive.  Double rows of canon decks (never heard of at the time), bright, colourful -- the flagship of Sweden.  It sets sail on its maiden voyage.  Its a gorgeous sunny day, calm smooth waters, cheering crowds to hail the launch -- and then barely out of the port of Stockholm, the ship takes on water, sinks -- killing the majority of her crew.   

Its an unbelievable story.  In 1961, the Vasa was raised in an incredible effort.  In the museum, she is 95% original -- she's assembled, and in some instances you can even walk on her top deck!  The only downfall, and its a small one, is that the museum is very dark (for preservation reasons) so its very hard to take a good photo.

Its so big, its impossible to get the entire ship in one photo.  This is actually a photo near the bow of the ship.  The flaps opened are canon holds.  Adorning them are lion heads. 

 

This is the rear of the ship.  Well, one small detail on the back of the ship.  This is right below the Captain's and officer's quarters.  I wanted you to see how well preserved the ship is and how ornate it was.  It really was a gorgeous ship.

And to make it even more gorgeous -- it turns out the entire ship was painted in vivid colours.  Archeologists have been testing the chemicals on the wood, and have discovered the compounds of coloured paint.  Here is an example of the painting on the ship.  Its just a tiny section, but from it, you can clearly see how beautiful the entire painted ship would have been. 

 

Jason is standing next to a replica of the lion springing off the bow of the ship.  If you scroll back to the top of this post and look at the picture from the museum, you can see how the bow of the ship narrows to a point.  (The point isn't in the picture, you can just see the narrowing.)  This lion stands at the narrowest point.

Home Again... (Stockholm, Sweden)

And a ferry ride "home".  (Okay, to the airport -- but who's keeping track!)

Amsterdam. Have you been waiting to see? (Amsterdam, Holland)

Can you imagine a more beautiful city?  Things I was thinking of before we went.  Bicycles, canals, Van Gogh, Anne Frank and of course, the red light district.  An interesting mix by anyone's standards.  And yet, its totally Amsterdam, and I loved it.  

Where to Start? (Amsterdam)

In something I can only describe as completely out of character, Jason and I began our visit to Holland (Amsterdam) by eating Mexican food.  I can't explain it!  Actually, I can.  If you know us, you know we love Mexican food.  In Europe, however, Mexican food isn't really popular -- okay, that's an understatement, its not popular at all.  So, consequently, everywhere you go, there are these awful forms of Mexican food -- wannabe Mexican actually.  Say, guacamole with mayonnaise in it (as in the UK), or burritos with baked beans and cucumbers (a la Copenhagen)...you are starting to get the picture.  So, with this little Mexican joint around the corner from our hotel, we skeptically entered -- hopes high as always, waiting for the big let down.  

I can report, however, that the food was pretty good.  A little bland, but we enjoyed a Mexican beer, had some chips and salsa, and were frankly pretty pleased with our tacos and burritos.  (Please don't read into this that the meal was authentic or anything near authenticity -- but hey, our standards are so low by now, we'll take any Mexican food we can find!)

Enroute to Dam Square (Amsterdam)

Our first look at Amsterdam.  We are just outside our hotel -- I loved the architecture of Amsterdam.  The houses are multi-coloured, slightly crooked at times, but completely charming.

"[The square] was created in the 13th century when a dam was built around the river Amstel to prevent the Zuiderzee sea from swarming the city. During the sixties, the square was renowned for its Dam Square hippies, and the laid back and relaxed character of this densely pigeon populated square lives on."

Jason looks sufficiently laid back in the square, don't you think?

Houses, Churches, Canals and Bicycles (Amsterdam)

A picture I happen to like.  Just a view of the architecture, the differences in houses, and the slightly odd and put together look of Amsterdam.

  

"Westerkerk or the West Church, the church most visited by tourists in the city, has the largest nave of any Dutch Protestant Church, and the tallest tower and the largest congregation in Amsterdam.  The church was completed in 1631."  Inside the church, is said to be buried Rembrandt (8 October 1669) and his son, Titus, a year earlier in 1668.

The church is only open to the public from April to September.  We were there in November, so we were unable to go inside.

Canals and bicycles.  Although this was our first day, we were instantly introduced to a theme to repeat in Amsterdam over and over.  Stunning canals and bicycles!!  In this picture, you can see Westerkerk behind Jason, and if you look closely on the left of the picture -- look at the roof lines, do you see the house in the middle where the roof is flat?  That's Anne Frank's hideaway house.  Don't worry -- we are going there in a different post!

Anne Frank's House and Museum (Amsterdam)

Can I just start by saying -- there are no words.  No, that's not true, there are -- they just aren't good enough.

The museum doesn't allow pictures, and frankly, I didn't care to take any.  

The house is like nothing you could ever imagine -- for a lot of reasons.  For starters, its actually above a factory not another house.  And something else, its much bigger than I had ever pictured in my mind.  Aside from the physical space, there were so so many people who helped them.  I mean, I knew that -- of course, but the risk, the generosity, it was so overwhelming.  

In fact -- everything about the experience was overwhelming.  

Truth be told though, its so much better than the story of a little girl living with her family in confinement and hiding.  The museum has made sure that the experience matters, that you understand (as best as anyone not in that situation ever could)  the war, these lives, the neighbourhoods, the military -- all of it -- in the most interconnected way.   

All of the feelings of those few hours in museum remain with me today (and will always).

I searched the internet for these photos for you.  They aren't in any particular order.  

Here is the book case, opening to the left, that leads to the hidden staircase up to the apartment.  The bookcase is always propped slightly open, and it is the entrance to the apartment today. 

 

This is a sketch of the interior of the apartment.  Its in the back of the factory and is spread over three levels. 

 

This is the front of the house/factory.  The museum owns the entire building now, and allows the public into the apartment.  Additionally, downstairs there is an exhibit dedicated to the work of the museum's anti-semitic/anti-racism organisation. 

 

After all that, a smile for you.  I am standing in the line to the house.  Its such an important museum, the line regularly wraps around corner/block.  We arrived early, and fortunately the line was at a minimum.

Bicycles (Amsterdam)

This looks like a common car park.  But look closely.  Those are bicycles.  Loads of them!  In Amsterdam, there are about 740,000 resident.  There are approximately 600,000 bicycles!  Amsterdam is a small city (you could walk across in about thirty minutes), and so bicycles rule!  They reminded me of beach cruisers in the style of the bicycle and they have no hand brakes, instead you brake by pressing backwards on the peddles.  For visitors, there are public bicycles that you can unlock using a paid smart card.  We never rode the bicycles, as we could walk everywhere -- but they did look fun! 

Pub Life

When Jason was looking at the Amsterdam entries, he noticed that a post about the afternoon we spent in an Amsterdam cafe was missing.  I hate the pictures from the cafe (bad rain hair, lighting, etc...) but I do think this video is quite charming, if not a bit dark.  I hope you enjoy a small glimpse into our afternoon!

Canal Boating! (Amsterdam)

Generally, Jason and I like to take a hop on-hop off bus tour in a city we are visiting.  Its always a little cheesy, but we like it nonetheless.  In Amsterdam, we signed up for the hop on -hop off canal boat!  As it was raining one morning, we thought it would be a good idea to hop on and stay on -- at least until the rain passed!

We were rewarded by this decision, as the canals are lovely in the rain.  Actually, the canals are lovely period.  As are the bridges, the houseboats, the bicycles, all of it.  Charming, really!

Jason on the boat!  Did I mention the boat was heated?  As there was quite the chill in the air -- I am curled up by the window, hovering over the heater!

This is a special sight for the boat tour.  There are seven bridges all in a row -- the view is exactly the same if you are looking out the opposite window as well.  Jason certainly had to be quick and positioned to snag this photo as the boat was motoring on by!